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来源:医苑爱问    发布时间:2018年12月11日 18:03:02    编辑:admin         

HONG KONG — When the third edition of Art Basel Hong Kong opens to the public on Sunday, the atmosphere at Asia’s hottest contemporary art fair will be noticeably cooler — for reasons that have less to do with the region’s overall economic slowdown than the shift in the fair’s dates from humid May to balmy March.香港——第三届香港巴塞尔艺术展(Art Basel Hong Kong)将于本周日开幕,作为亚洲最热门的当代艺术展会,本届的“热度”明显会有所降低。其实这和该地区整体经济增长放缓关系不大,而是因为展会的日期从闷热的5月调整到了温煦的3月。But the show’s organizers hope the real draw of the date change for collectors and galleries will be more distance in the international art world calendar from the fair madness of May and June.但该展会的组织者之所以更改日期,实际上是希望与国际艺术界5月和6月繁忙的展会安排岔开时间,方便收藏家和画廊参加。“Because of the timing, we weren’t reaching the potential we thought we could reach,” said Marc Spiegler, director of Art Basel.“因为时间安排问题,我们从前没有实现应该可以达到的潜力,”巴塞尔艺术展总监马克·斯皮格勒(Marc Spiegler)说。With the March date, Art Basel Hong Kong — the newest outpost of the Art Basel triumvirate that also includes editions in Switzerland and Miami Beach — will no longer run up against Frieze New York, Gallery Weekend in Berlin and the Venice Biennale in May, not to mention the flagship Art Basel in June.香港巴塞尔艺术展是巴塞尔三大展会中最年轻的一个,其他两个分别在瑞士和迈阿密海滩举办。改期到3月之后,它就不会和5月的纽约弗里兹展(Frieze)、柏林的画廊周末(Gallery Weekend)以及双年展(Venice Biennale)发生时间冲突,更不用说6月的旗舰展会巴塞尔艺术展了。If all goes according to plan, the shift will allow Art Basel Hong Kong to bring in more big Western art players to mix with the younger, less-established regional contemporary art scene for a week of openings, cocktail parties, panel discussions and dinners — a unique intermingling of East and West that has in many ways come to define Art Basel Hong Kong from its counterparts.如果一切按计划进行,改期将会为香港巴塞尔艺术展带来更多的大牌西方参展商,让他们与这里的更为年轻的、新兴的、区域性的当代艺术人士共聚一堂,在一周长的时间里参加各种揭幕式、鸡尾酒会、小组讨论会和晚宴--东西方以多种方式独特地交织混合,是香港巴塞尔艺术展不同于其他展会的标志性特点。The strategy appears to be working. This year’s fair will feature 233 galleries from 37 countries and territories — slightly fewer than last year, but still maintaining the 50-50 split between Asian and Western exhibitors, as in previous years. Art-world heavyweights like Gagosian Gallery, Acquavella, Pace, David Zwirner and Hauser amp; Wirth will be alongside prominent Asian galleries like ShanghART Gallery and Vitamin Creative Space.这个策略似乎显露了成效。今年的览会将有来自37个国家和地区的233家艺廊参加——比去年略有减少,但仍维持着往年亚洲和西方参展商各占一半的比例。像高古轩艺廊(Gagosian Gallery)、阿奎维拉艺廊(Acquavella)、佩斯艺廊(Pace)、大卫·兹沃纳艺廊(David Zwirner),以及豪瑟和沃斯艺廊(Hauseramp; Wirth)这样的重磅级艺术商,将与香格纳艺廊、维他命艺术空间等著名亚洲艺廊同台参展。But there will also be 29 first-time exhibitors, including Edward Tyler Nahem Fine Art from New York, Thomas Dane Gallery from London, Skarstedt from New York and London, and, from the Asia-Pacific region, Darren Knight Gallery from Sydney and Liang Gallery from Taipei.但本届也有29家首次参展的艺术商,其中包括纽约的爱德华·泰勒·纳厄姆艺廊(Edward Tyler Nahem Art)、伦敦的托马斯·戴恩艺廊(Thomas Dane Gallery),来自纽约和伦敦的斯卡斯登特艺廊(Skarstedt),亚太地区的则有悉尼的达伦骑士艺廊(Darren Knight Gallery)和台北的谷公馆。“We’ve been wanting to do the fair for some time,” Mr. Nahem said. “But as somebody who prides himself on sourcing great material, and it certainly doesn’t grow on trees, it wouldn’t have been easy to do the two fairs close to each other,” he said, referring to Art Basel in Switzerland.“我们想来参会已经有一段时间了,”纳厄姆说。“但是,佳作肯定不是从树上长出来的,而作为以购藏佳作为傲的知名艺廊,要在短时间内参加两个展会很困难,”他说。两个展会指的是香港和瑞士的巴塞尔艺术展。Another first-time exhibitor is the Andrea Rosen Gallery of New York, which will be bringing a billboard by the Cuban-born American artist Félix González-Torres, among other work. Called “Untitled” (1995), the billboard will be exhibited in tram shelters and transportation hubs across the city in partnership with the Hong Kong nonprofit organization K11 Art Foundation.纽约的安德烈·罗森艺廊(Andrea Rosen Gallery)也是首次参展,它带来了一面名为“无题”(Untitled,1995年)的广告牌,由古巴出生的美国艺术家菲利克斯·冈萨雷斯-托雷斯(Félix González-Torres)创作。在香港非营利性组织K11艺术基金会协助下,这块广告牌将在香港各处的电车候车厅和交通枢纽展出。“I think a lot of people have a curiosity about Hong Kong right now,” Ms. Rosen said.“我想目前很多人都对香港感到好奇,”罗森说。The emergence of Hong Kong as a top destination for international art-world figures is a recent phenomenon. When the local art fair, ART HK, began in 2008, the city was known mostly as a global financial capital. That changed as the market for contemporary art began to flourish, a shift accelerated by the purchase in 2011 of ART HK by MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd., Art Basel’s parent company. (The founders of ART HK will be debuting a more Asia-focused, satellite fair called Art Central on Saturday.)香港成为国际艺术界成员的顶级目的地的时间还不长。2008年,本地艺术展香港国际艺术展开始举办的时候,该市主要是一个全球性的金融资本中心。随着当代艺术品市场的蓬勃发展,这种状况发生了转变,而巴塞尔艺术展的母公司MCH瑞士展览(巴塞尔)有限公司2011年收购了香港国际艺术展,更是加速了这一转变。(本周六,香港国际艺术展的创办人将举办一个更侧重于亚洲的展会,名为香港当代艺术展[Art Central])。“I think now that we’ve established Hong Kong as the major site for the fair in Asia, the bigger task is to focus on the markets that feed the fair,” Mr. Spiegler said.“我认为,我们已经把香港变成了亚洲艺术展会的桥头堡,更大的任务是把重点放在撑展会的市场上,”斯皮格勒说。To that end, the team of organizers led by Mr. Spiegler and Adeline Ooi, the new Asia director for Art Basel, have been focusing on recruiting collectors and museum directors, with an emphasis on the Asia-Pacific region. Expected to attend this year are the heads of major arts institutions like the Tate in Britain in London, the Museum of Modern Art in New York, the Mori Art Museum in Tokyo, the Art Gallery of New South Wales in Sydney, the Museum of Contemporary Art in Taipei and M+, Hong Kong’s visual culture museum that is scheduled to open in 2018. Last year, the event, which is being held again at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Center, logged about 65,000 visitors.为此,在斯皮格勒和巴塞尔艺术展新上任的亚洲总监黄雅君(Adeline Ooi)的带领下,组织者团队集中精力招募收藏者和物馆馆长,并把侧重点放在亚太地区。一些知名艺术机构的负责人预计将于今年参会,他们来自于伦敦的英国泰特美术馆(Tate in Britain)、纽约现代艺术物馆(the Museum of Modern Art, MoMA)、东京的森美术馆(Mori Art Museum)、悉尼的新南威尔士艺术馆(Art Gallery of New South Wales)、台北当代艺术馆,以及定于2018年开业的香港视觉文化物馆M+。去年,这个活动吸引了6.5万名观众,今年的活动仍然在香港会议展览中心举行。“There is a curiosity about all these galleries and artists they’ve never heard of,” Mr. Spiegler said. “For the Asian collectors, that’s especially true, because the different art scenes in Asia are historically so disconnected from one another.”“这些从没听说过的艺廊和艺术家让大家很感兴趣,”施皮格勒说。“对亚洲藏家来说,尤其如此,因为亚洲不同的艺术圈子一贯是相互脱节的。”David Heng, 48, a collector in Singapore, has attended the event every year since it began as ART HK in 2008. “ The fair is getting quite interesting,” he said. The scale is growing, he added, and “we’re starting to see a lot of big names in terms of the works the galleries are bringing.”48岁的新加坡藏家戴维·王(David Heng)从香港国际艺术展2008年创办以来就每年前来参会。他说,“这个展会正在变得相当有意思。”他还表示,展会的规模也在扩大,“我们开始看到艺廊送来的作品里头出现了很多重量级的名字。”The juxtaposition of Western and Asian artists at the fair makes for a fresh cultural dialogue for collectors who are accustomed to viewing one or two artists at a time here in galleries or at auctions, said Pearl Lam, a Hong Kong dealer “It’s a very different way of looking at art,” said Ms. Lam, who opened a second Hong Kong gallery in the Sheung Wan neighborhood in time for the festivities. “But now with contemporary art being so fashionable, the gallery culture in Hong Kong is coming together and everybody is getting into the habit of going to art fairs.”香港经销商林明珠(Pear Lam)表示,展会上西方和亚洲艺术家的混搭提供了与藏家开展全新文化对话的机会,而这些藏家习惯的是在艺廊或拍卖会上一次看一两位艺术家的作品。“看待艺术的方式非常不一样,”林明珠说。她刚好在此次活动前在上环开设了自己在香港的第二家艺廊。“但是现在当代艺术这么时髦,所以香港的艺廊文化正在形成,人人都在养成去看艺术展的习惯。”Among the many artists being highlighted at the show is Cao Fei, a rising Chinese artist known for her exploration of Chinese identity through multimedia and projects.参加香港巴塞尔艺术展的众多艺术家中,有一位是冉冉上升的中国艺术家曹斐。她的特色是通过多媒体和视频项目来探讨自己的中国人身份。For this year’s fair, she will present “Same Old, Brand New,” a large-scale installation commissioned by Art Basel that will be shown across the fa#231;ade of the 118-story International Commerce Centre, the tallest building in Hong Kong.今年,受巴塞尔艺术展委托,曹斐将展示大型视频装置作品《乐旧·图新》(Same Old, Brand New)。它将在香港最高的建筑118层的环球贸易广场的外立面上展示。The work, which draws on symbols and logos from games in a reference to popular and youth culture in ultra-wired Hong Kong in particular, will be shown each night from Friday to Tuesday, with a smartphone app viewers can download.这件作品从视频游戏中截取图标,影射年轻人的流行文化,尤其是在高度联网的香港。它将在本周五到下周二的每晚表演,还配有一款智能手机应用供观众下载。While not explicitly political, Ms. Cao’s piece, with its reference to Hong Kong youth, inevitably calls to mind the recent democracy protests that convulsed the city for months as protesters, many of them young Hong Kongers, took to the streets to demand open elections for the territory’s chief executive.曹斐的作品虽说并不直接带有政治色,但它涉及了香港年轻人的文化,不可避免地让人想起近期令香港震荡了数月之久的民主抗议活动。当时,抗议者走上街头,要求公开选举香港行政长官,其中许多参与者是本地年轻人。“Everybody is curious how the recent political unrest is going to have an impact on the arts community,” said Doryun Chong, chief curator of M+.“大家都想知道,近期的政治动荡会怎么样来影响艺术圈,”M+的首席策展人郑道炼(Doryun Chong)说。He added: “My view is actually that this shifting ground that we’re standing on in fact actually makes things much more interesting.”他还表示:“我的观点实际上是,我们的大环境在改变,而这其实在让事情变得有意思得多。” /201503/364589。

;Success is where preparation and opportunity meet.Failure is where they meet,but can#39;t stand each other.;成功在机会和准备相遇的地方,失败是当他们相遇了却相互不持。 /201506/382446。

I go to Rome and I know that there will be prosciutto in my days, bucatini in my nights. I go to Lisbon with an uncontestable agenda of the shellfish and the sausage that the Portuguese cook so enviably.我去罗马的时候,知道自己应该白天吃意大利熏火腿,晚上吃意大利细条面。我去里斯本的时候,确定无疑地将葡萄牙喷香诱人的贻贝和香肠纳入旅行计划。I go to Hong Kong with no foregone conclusions, just a blank to be filled any number of ways. That’s what I love about it.但我去香港的时候却什么美食计划也没做,因为我知道有太多的东西可以填充我空白的菜单,这也是我喜欢香港的原因。Technically, Hong Kong’s cuisine is Cantonese, and you should fit some dim sum into your dining. But what really distinguishes this electrifying city is its almost unrivaled culinary internationalism. It’s not just a global crossroads for business. It’s a global crossroads for food, one of a handful of commercial capitals, like New York and London, that have no particular concentration of ambitious, accomplished restaurants in any one genre. The most appealing and important places cut across all traditions.理论上讲,香港美食属于粤菜,所以游客总会品尝些点心。但让这个活力之城与众不同的是它无与伦比的美食国际化。香港不只是个国际贸易的集散地,更是全球美食的融合之所。像纽约、伦敦等少数几个商业大都市一样,各种风格的美食都有,但又没有任何一种凌驾于其他流派之上。那些最吸引人、最重要的餐馆,都是超越传统的。That’s the case in Hong Kong partly because it’s a setting where many of the best-known chefs from other countries establish outposts, sometimes even exporting versions of the enterprises that made them famous. Sushi superstars from Tokyo have planted flags here. As in Manhattan, there’s a Motorino for Neapolitan pizza lovers and a Carbone for fans of Italian-American cooking. As in Paris, there’s a L’Atelier de Jo#235;l Robuchon.香港的美食现状正是如此,部分原因是许多国家的知名大厨都选择到香港开业,有些大厨的事业甚至是从香港起家的。来自东京的著名寿司品牌,纷纷在香港安营扎寨。就仿佛在曼哈顿,既有供应正宗那不勒斯披萨的Motorino披萨店,也有定位美式意大利菜的Carbone饭店。或者像巴黎的L’Atelier de Jo#235;l Robuchon米其林餐厅。During a visit I made to Hong Kong in 2013, two of the new spots drawing the most chatter were a Mexican restaurant, Brickhouse, and a Japanese yakitori, Yardbird.我2013年造访香港的时候, 名气最大的新晋饭店有两家,一家是墨西哥饭店“砖房”(Brickhouse),另一家是日式烤肉店“新兵”(Yardbird)。When I returned recently and took a fresh inventory of newcomers that had generated significant enthusiasm, the list included many restaurants with Mediterranean moorings — Spanish, French, Italian or an amalgam of those. One restaurant advertised a melding of Italian and Japanese. A spot specializing in upscale American hamburgers was a big hit, as was one specializing in Japanese curry.趁着这次再访香港,我对当地美食界的新秀又做了一次盘点。这些在吃货中引发巨大热情的饭店,很多都供应地中海饮食——包括西班牙菜、法国菜、意大利菜或融合多种风味。有一家饭店的广告声称自己既有意大利菜,又有日本菜。一家专注于高端美式汉堡的饭店非常火爆,同样火爆的另一家餐馆专做日本咖喱饭。And that’s not counting the five standouts described in more detail below. Suffice it to say that in this one polyglot city across one hungry week, I ate the whole wide world.但本文详细描述的几家优秀餐馆,却不在上述行列。一言以蔽之,在这个包罗万象的城市停留一星期,我尝遍了整个世界。NurNurThe main dining room opens to a terrace several stories above the streets of central Hong Kong, and on the night when I dined here, a gentle breeze blew in.位于香港中环,主要就餐区正好对着一个高出地面好几层的露台。我去吃饭的那晚,有习习凉风吹过。But that wasn’t all that the terrace provided. Time and again, regarding dish after dish, our server noted that some leaf, shoot or blossom had come from the greenery out there, mere strides away. Forget farm-to-table, this was patio-to-table — and a vivid illustration of Nur’s stated commitment to local products.但这不是露台能提供的所有好处。一次又一次,在上菜间隙,给我们上菜的务员提到,不断有来自周边环境的树叶、竹叶或花朵从我们身边飞过。忘掉“从农场到餐桌”的口号吧,Nur是“从露台到餐桌”的,这同时也是饭店坚持使用本地食材的生动体现。I had sat down to my dinner here with some doubts. The restaurant’s name recognizes the first syllable of the chef’s (Nurdin Topham) as well as the Arabic word for “light.” Its website lays out both Mr. Topham’s belief in a restrained, healthful discipline he calls “nourishing gastronomy” and his past involvement in “a somewhat unorthodox project — the deliciousness of insects.” I braced for preciousness and strange critters. I needn’t have.我刚开始吃饭的时候,心里还有些犹疑。饭店的名字Nur是首席大厨诺丁·托普汉姆(Nurdin Topham)名字的第一个音节,它在阿拉伯语中的意思是“光芒”。饭店网站不仅强调了托普汉姆先生对节制型健康饮食的信念 “滋养型美味”,还讲到他以前参与的一个“非传统项目——作为食物的昆虫之美”。所以我刚到的时候,猜测这里的饭菜大约是剑走偏锋那种,充满奇特物种。但品尝之后发现自己多虑了。There are traces of molecular gastronomy in some of Mr. Topham’s artfully composed dishes, which reduce certain ingredients to concentrated pastes or broths of intense flavor. And there’s a vigorous nod to the Copenhagen culinary temple Noma, where Mr. Topham briefly worked, and to its locavore ethos. For that reason, Nur has sometimes been called a New Nordic restaurant.在托普汉姆先生精心烹制的食物中,有些颇能体现“分子美食”的追求,风味浓郁的面团和肉汤集中了多种配料的精华。此外,饭菜不仅明显体现出对哥本哈根美食圣殿诺玛(Noma)的致敬(托普汉姆曾在这家饭店工作过一段时间),更明确表达对本地饮食风格的重视。所以,Nur有时会被归入“新北欧”风格饭馆。But it’s more original than that. With a scrupulous emphasis on the best vegetables, fish and meat available and with absolutely flawless cooking, at least when I visited, Mr. Topham produces food that’s sensationally robust without being the least bit rich. It’s almost oxymoronic, packing a light wallop, with a clearness and purity of effect that I’ve seldom encountered. And it’s bug-free! If this is nourishing gastronomy, put me down for ceaseless gastronomic nourishment.但这家饭店的创意远超过人们的归类。它全面表现了自己对优质果蔬、鱼类和肉类以及烹调技术无微不至的强调——至少在我去的那天如此。托普汉姆先生为我烹制的食物精致可口,滋味微妙,新鲜至极。说起来自相矛盾,但这里奉上的食物既微妙又极具冲击力,纯净程度平生罕见。而且没有虫子!如果这就是滋养型美食,就给让我永远沉浸在这无穷无尽的滋养中吧。Nur doesn’t give you any choices. It serves just one tasting of nine courses including dessert, and they came in rapid enough succession and sensible enough measure that I never felt impatient or overwhelmed (though, by the end, I felt amply filled).Nur饭店不许食客点菜,只提供包括九道菜的品味套餐。上菜的速度很快,上菜的顺序和方式也很合理,整个过程我从未感觉不耐烦或压力(当然最后,我发现自己吃得过饱)。There were orbs of heirloom tomato with a texture almost like sorbet and a pool of tomato water around them. A subsequent dish combined salmon eggs with walnuts and horseradish yogurt. Squid, paired with charred onions and lemon basil, was exquisitely supple and sweet, and dessert was a fitting, fetching cap to a meal with such a vegetal, herbaceous bent: ice cream that tasted like French onion soup.菜品包括:几只传统方法烹制的质感仿佛冰沙的西红柿,周围是一汪西红柿汁;接下来是一道融合了鲑鱼卵、胡桃和山葵酸奶的小菜;鱿鱼搭配微火碳烤的洋葱和柠檬罗勒,尝起来滋味柔甜,微妙无比;餐后甜点是尝起来像法式洋葱汤的冰淇淋,回味丰厚,对以果蔬为主的清爽美食进行了适当而及时的补充。Although that terrace accommodates a few diners, I sat at a spacious and relatively quiet table just inside, within view of an open kitchen more fully and pleasantly integrated into the dining room than such stages often are. And I had a glass of white Burgundy, followed by a glass of Barolo, from a wine list that covered many of Europe’s highlights.尽管露台上能容纳好几桌食客,但我的餐桌位于室内,一个宽敞而相对安静的所在,可以看到完整且与就餐区和谐融合的开放式厨房。至于酒水,我先喝了一杯意大利巴罗洛干红,然后是一杯勃艮第白葡萄酒。酒水单上的选项,大都是来自欧洲的好酒。#173;Nur, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Third Floor, Central; nur.hk. Dinner for two, without drinks or tip, comes to about 2,375 Hong Kong dollars, or 5, at 7.50 Hong Kong dollars to the U.S. dollar.Nur,地址1 Lyndhurst Terrace,三楼正中间; nur.hk。两人份晚餐约2375港币,不含酒水和小费,根据美元对港币7.50的汇率约315美元。SouvlaSouvlaThe white granite tables are rimmed in bright red. The booths and benches are upholstered in deep purple. There’s a long, long bar that rests atop a long, long rectangle of pale stones held together by a mesh cage. As visually arresting as all of this is, I’m not sure what it has to do with Greece, which is the country whose cooking Souvla pays tribute to.白色花岗岩餐桌镶着红边,包间和座椅都包有深紫色的软垫。长长的吧台设在一块形状狭长、用网笼箍好的灰色石板上。这家饭店的第一印象很是吸引眼球,但我不知道它与希腊有什么关系,而店名Souvla(字面意思为“希腊烤肉”)显然表达了对希腊烹饪的致敬。But the would be instantly recognizable to any Athenian. The food would pass muster as well. Greeks like to think that they have some special secret for octopus that’s tenderer than anywhere else, but they’d be hard-pressed to outdo the kitchen here, which sculpted and arranged the thin columns of pale pink flesh into a sort of pyramid. It was octopus Legos.但只要看到菜单,任何雅典人都会承认这家饭店的正宗。端上来的菜也非常符合要求。希腊人总认为自己有某种秘密手段,能将章鱼肉烹得比其他地区更为柔嫩,但他们如果看到这家饭店就会备感压力,因为这里的厨师能将章鱼幼细浑圆的浅粉色腕足精心雕塑,再排成金字塔的性状——简直就是章鱼肉拼成的乐高玩具。I’m an ardent lover of taramosalata, that Greek (and Turkish) sp of smoked fish roe and olive oil, and Souvla’s achieved the perfect pitch of saltiness, along with an ethereal creaminess. It sp like a cloud across triangles of toasted pita that were glossed with oil and still warm.我非常喜欢希腊(以及土耳其)红鱼籽沙拉,一种由烟熏鱼籽拌上橄榄油而成的菜品。Souvla的红鱼籽沙拉不仅做到了完美的咸度,还有一丝若有若无的奶油味。将这种鱼籽抹在微温且略带油香的三角形皮塔饼上,仿佛一层轻柔的云朵。Those two dishes came toward the start of our meal, and I figured that they’d be the high points. But there were taller peaks ahead. One was gemista, a hearty, earthy casserole of potatoes, tomato sauce and peppers stuffed with rice. The other was the slow-cooked lamb, ribbons of meltingly soft leg meat placed next to a glittering relish of pomegranate and a tiny glass bottle filled with a tangy yogurt dressing.以上是我们那一餐的两道头盘,我以为它们就是当天的亮点。但后面其实有更大的惊喜。土豆青椒炖香米(gemista)是一种分量十足的砂锅类炖菜,主料是土豆、番茄酱和塞满米饭的青椒。另一道菜是小火慢炖的羊肉,一条条羊腿肉被烹得软糯无骨,搭配的小菜由亮晶晶的石榴籽做成,蘸料则是盛在小玻璃杯里的浓香酸奶。As I looked at the artful presentation of the lamb and thought back to the octopus, the décor suddenly made sense. It was an announcement that Souvla would respect Greece but reinterpret it with fillips all its own. So while Souvla covers the hoary classics — spanakopita, moussaka — it gives some of them a face-lift, and it tacks on a long list of elaborate specialty cocktails, the focal point of a lively bar scene.#173;看着眼前充满艺术气息的羊肉摆盘,刚才章鱼肉的摆放方式忽然有了意义。这是Souvla饭店的自我宣言——它尊重希腊本土烹饪,但也用多种有趣的创造对传统进行重新解释。所以,Souvla烹制菠菜派(spanakopita)和穆萨卡(moussaka)等经典菜品的同时,也对它们进行了升级换代。此外,精心调配的多种鸡尾酒也让这家饭店别具特色,营造出一种轻松愉快的酒吧氛围。#173;Souvla, 1/F Ho Lee Commercial Building, 40 D’Aguilar Street, Central; conceptcreations#173;.hk#173;. Dinner for two, without drinks or tip, averages 1,150 dollars.Souvla,地址:1/F Ho Lee Commercial Building, 40 D’Aguilar Street, Central;conceptcreations.hk。两人份晚餐,均价1150港币,不含酒水和小费。ChachawanChachawanWhile Souvla and Nur are tucked away, almost invisibly, in tall buildings, Chachawan opens wide to the street, with the sidewalk almost acting as its vestibule. This befits its air of scruffy, ragtag informality and a that’s inspired in part by street food from Thailand, or, to be more specific, the northeastern Thai province of Isan. That’s how narrowly focused this restaurant is, and that’s how ethnically ambitious Hong Kong can get.Souvla和Nur藏匿在高楼大厦之间,从远处几乎看不到,Chachawan就在街面上,人行道如同它的门廊一般。这也颇符合它凌乱无章、不拘礼节的底层特质。它的菜单部分来自泰国的路边摊,或者更准确地说,来自泰国东北的伊森省。这家餐厅的专营范围就有这么窄,或者说香港美食在民族层面就有这样丰富。With the cooking of Isan you get ample spice. You get serious fire. One dish almost brought me to my knees. It looked so innocent, so pretty, a salad with a bright, approachable medley of colors and textures, courtesy of green papaya, cherry tomatoes, dried shrimp, peanuts. But there were a few small chiles lurking in there, and they soon enough registered their presence in my throat and in my gut, which was suddenly a caldron. It seethed and bubbled for hours to come.伊森的烹饪需要加入大量香料。这定能给你带来兴奋刺激。其中一道菜令我深深折。它看上去只是一道漂亮无害的沙拉,各种明亮的色与亲切的质地混合在一起,似乎是青木瓜、樱桃番茄、虾仁和花生的混合。但是里面还潜伏着少许辣椒,很快就开始在我的喉咙与肺腑之内彰显它们的存在,我觉得自己简直变成了一个大汽锅,其后几个小时都在一直沸腾冒泡。Chachawan was worth the burn. Not every dish carried that risk, but nearly every dish had the interplay of contrasting effects that are at the heart of Southeast Asian cooking. In the “Larp Moo,” a loose, wet mix of chopped pork, pork skin, shallots and mint needed something dry and firm, so it got that, from leaves of crisp, cool iceberg to be used as wraps.Chachawan完全值得你为之沸腾。每一道菜都有这样的危险,而且每一道菜中都有鲜明的反差效果,这是东南亚烹饪的精髓。“Larp Moo”是把猪肉馅、猪皮、小葱和薄荷混合在一起,松软多汁,需要配合干硬的东西一起吃,因此外面包着又冷又脆,如同冰山的叶子。Sweet and sour, sugar and spice, cold and hot: These were the currents that ran through most of the dishes, including a garlicky, boneless chicken thigh on a stick: a supersized satay. Sweet and salty were the playmates in an excellent dessert of coconut rice dumplings in a salted coconut cream.绝大多数菜肴里贯穿着甜与酸、糖与香料、冷与热的口感,比如用大蒜调味的无骨鸡腿,用签子串着——这是一份特大号的沙茶烤肉。椰米饺子是一道美味的甜点,要蘸着咸味的椰酱食用,甜与咸仿佛成为一对玩伴。Chachawan is routinely thronged, but it’s not for everyone. Situated in the increasingly trendy neighborhood of Sheung Wan, it doesn’t take reservations. Some of its servers are better at striking hipster poses than seeing to your needs. The seating is on the awkward side of snug.Chachawan通常都很拥挤,而且不是所有人都能来想用。它坐落在日益时尚的上环,不接受定位。有些侍者与其说照顾客人,不如说更擅长摆出时髦姿态。座椅也不舒。But there’s no arguing with the food that the chef, Adam Cliff, produces. And if the self-consciously scruffy setting isn’t exactly relaxing, you can use Chachawan’s vivid, creative cocktails and its smart international selection of beers to unwind.但是大厨亚当·克利夫(Adam Cliff)烹制的食物无可挑剔。如果你在这种刻意的凌乱环境中感到不自在,那么享用一杯Chachawan新颖可口的鸡尾酒,或者来自世界各地的精的啤酒,你就会放松下来。#173;Chachawan, 206 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan; chachawan.hk. Dinner for two, without drinks or tips, averages 675 dollars.Chavchawan,206 Hollywood Road,上环,chachawan.hk,两人份晚餐,均价675港元,不含酒水和小费。Aberdeen Street SocialAberdeen Street SocialThis restaurant is as polished and refined as Chachawan is hectic. It sps out over two stories that include a downstairs bar, outdoor terraces and an upstairs dining room that’s dominated by dark woods and brings to mind the inside of a chest of drawers. The servers are numerous, proper and hovering.如果说Chachawan是忙乱的,这家店则是风雅而又精致。它占了两层楼,楼下是酒吧,还有个露天平台,楼上的用餐区以深色木质装潢为主,令人感觉置身五斗橱中。侍者人数众多,举止得体,在四处走来走去。And the prices reflect this. Especially if you order wine from Aberdeen’s widely ranging list, the bill can climb high.这些特点也体现在价格上。这里的菜单虽然价格多样,但如果你点了红酒,可能就得付天价账单了。The restaurant is affiliated with the English chef Jason Atherton, a Gordon Ramsay protégé with a rapidly growing international roster, including several previous places in Hong Kong. His here has been called “modern British,” a culinary phrase that, like “new American,” tends to be elastic. In Aberdeen’s case, it means the existence of British staples and British conventions complemented by Asian, Mediterranean influences. So while the starters I encountered included a pig’s trotter with black pudding for the Anglophile, there was also tuna tataki with ponzu dressing, not to mention a tomato salad with Italian burrata cheese.这家餐厅与英国大厨杰森·阿瑟顿(Jason Atherton)关系密切,他是戈登·拉姆齐(Gordon Ramsay)的学徒,迅速积累起在世界各地工作的经验,其中也包括上面提过的几家香港餐厅。他将自己的菜单称之为“现代英式菜”,这个烹饪术语和“新美国菜”一样,非常灵活。在Aberdee这里,他为英国主餐与英国传统菜赋予少许亚洲与地中海气息。比如我吃到的开胃菜中就有英国血肠配猪脚和金鱼刺身蘸柚子醋,更不必说番茄沙拉搭配意大利布拉塔奶酪。I was especially impressed with two entrees, a sublime pork chop served with a red pepper relish and slices of lamb rump dusted with a “kidney powder” that teased out the meat’s muskiness. My companions and I savored these at a spacious table next to a glass wall that let just the right amount of light onto our meal.主菜中我特别喜欢的有两道,搭配红辣椒调料的猪排令人赞叹不已;搭配“肾脏粉末”的切片羊羔后臀肉散发着麝香般的气息。我和同伴在宽敞的桌前用餐,阳光从身边的玻璃幕墙射进来,照在道道佳肴之上。#173;Aberdeen Street Social, JPC G/Floor, 35 Aberdeen Street, Central; aberdeenstreetsocial#173;.hk. Dinner for two, without drinks or tip, averages about 1,450 dollars.Aberdeen Street Social, JPC G/Floor, 35 Aberdeen Street,中环;aberdeenstreetsocial.hk. 两人份晚餐,均价约为1450港元,不含酒水和小费。Ho Lee FookHo Lee FookIf the pork at Aberdeen Street Social was sublime, the pork at Ho Lee Fook was nearly life-changing. I mean the strips of pork char siu, which refers to a Cantonese method of cooking the meat over fire and giving it a sweet red glaze. Char siu is a staple of Chinese takeout, but I’ve never had takeout that uses Berkshire pigs from Japan. When that caliber of flesh meets this method of preparation, the results are a fatty, flavorful knockout.如果说Aberdeen Street Social的猪肉令人赞叹,那么Ho Lee Fook的猪肉简直能够改变人生。我指的是这里的叉烧猪肉,这是一种粤式烹饪方法,把猪肉放在火上炙烤,为它赋予甜美的红色光泽。叉烧本是中国外卖餐馆中的主菜,但外卖不会提供用日本的德克夏猪制作的叉烧。在这里,用这种高质猪肉制成的叉烧肥美可口,令人着迷。Then again, most everything I had at Ho Lee Fook wowed me. The restaurant fuses Cantonese with other Asian traditions as well as any flourishes that the chef, Jowett Yu, deems appropriate. It’s thrillingly unbound, never letting precedent get in the way of deliciousness.Ho Lee Fook把粤菜和亚洲传统菜融为一炉,几乎所有菜都让我赞叹。此外还有不少大厨乔伊特·于(Jowett Yu)拿手的小菜。它们无拘无束,不拘一格而又美味之极。My favorite dish, even better than the pork, comprised slices of wagyu short rib that were arranged on one side of the bone, a green shallot kimchi on the other side and a jalape#241;o purée through which either or both could be swept. The way the heat of that purée cut the richness of the beef was exhilarating.我最喜欢的还要算是神户小牛排,甚至超过了猪肉:餐盘一边放着肉骨,一边放着青葱泡菜和一墨西哥青椒,你可以两边分别吃,也可以一起吃,青椒的辣味绝好地反衬出牛肉的肥腴。The sprawls across a half-dozen categories, including “raw,” “roast meat” and “vegetables.” There are fried chicken wings as well as hot-and-sour steak tartare, cabbage-and-pork dumplings as well as clams cooked in a Thai basil and tamarind broth. My companion and I ate twice as much as any two people should, longed to eat more and seriously thought about coming back the next night to do precisely that.菜单分为六大类,包括“生食”、“烤肉”和“蔬菜”等。你可以品尝到炸鸡翅、酸辣鞑靼牛肉末、猪肉白菜馅饺子和罗勒与罗望子调味的泰式蛤蜊汤。我和同伴吃了双份的食物还意犹未尽,盘算着第二天晚上再来一次。The restaurant’s setting is sexy: a dark underground room with just a few riveting pieces of art, including a white and gray dragon along one wall. This is what a Chinese drug lord’s rec room might look like.餐厅的布置非常优美:光线幽暗的地下室,墙上悬挂着若干饶有趣味的艺术作品,包括一条灰白色的龙,在墙壁上蜿蜒而过。感觉中国毒品大亨的室就应该是这样的。The tables aren’t jammed too close together, even though people clamor for seats. Reservations are taken only for groups of five or more; others wait at nearby bars for the hostess to summon them back. It can take an hour or more.这里不算拥挤,但仍然有很多人等位。只接受五人以上(含五人)的预定,其他人可以在附近的酒吧等候迎宾女招待的通知,可能需要等待一个小时甚至更长时间。And it’s worth it, for a feast that’s a bevy of culinary traditions in one — much like Hong Kong.#173;但是为了一顿融汇了各种传统的盛宴,等待是值得的,而香港也是如此。#173;Ho Lee Fook, 1-5 Elgin Street, Central; holeefook.com.hk. Dinner for two, without drinks or tip, averages 1,050 dollars.Ho Lee Fook, 1-5 Elgin Street,中环;holeefook.com.hk,两人份晚餐,均价1050港元,不含酒水或小费。 /201502/357845。

Aries is a Spring Zodiac Sign (as are the Signs of Taurus and Gemini). This time of the year is also known as the Vernal Equinox when the days and nights are of equal length.白羊:黄道十二宫的第一宫,每年3月21日前后太阳到这一宫,那时的节气是春分,所以春分点又叫“白羊宫第一点”。Taurus is a Spring Zodiac Sign (as are the Signs of Aries and Gemini). This time of the year is also known as the Grain Rain when the days and nights are of equal length.金牛:黄道十二宫的第二宫,每年4月20前后太阳到这一宫,那时的节气是谷雨。Gemini is a Spring Zodiac Sign (as are the Signs of Aries and Taurus). This time of the year is also known as the Grain Buds when the days and nights are of equal length.双子:黄道十二宫的第三宫,每年5朋21日前后太阳到这一宫,那时的节气是小满。Cancer is a Summer Zodiac Sign (as are the Signs of Leo and Virgo). This time of the year is also known as the Summer Solstice when the days are longer and the nights are shorter than at any other time during the year.巨蟹:黄道十二宫的第四宫,每年6月22日前后太阳到这一宫,那时的节气是夏至,所以夏点又叫“巨蟹宫第一点”。Leo is a Summer Zodiac Sign (as are the Signs of Cancer and Virgo). This time of the year is also known as the Great Heat when the days are longer and the nights are shorter than at any other time during the year.狮子:黄道十二宫的第五宫,每年7月23日前后太阳到这一宫,那时的节气是大暑。Virgo is a Summer Zodiac Sign (as are the Signs of Cancer and Leo). This time of the year is also known as the Stoppin the Heat when the days are longer and the nights are shorter than at any other time during the year.处女:黄道十二宫的第六宫,每年8月23日前后太阳到这一宫,那时的节气是处暑。Libra is an Autumn Zodiac Sign (as are the Signs of Scorpio and Sagittarius). This time of year is also known as the Fall Equinox...a time of harvest when the days and nights are of equal length.天秤:黄道十二宫的第七宫,每年9月24日前后太阳到这一宫,那时的节气是秋分,所以秋分点又叫“天秤宫第一点”。Scorpio is an Autumn Zodiac Sign (as are the Signs of Libra and Sagittarius). This time of year is also known as the Hoar-frost Falls...a time of harvest when the days and nights are of equal length.天蝎:黄道十二宫的第八宫,每年10月23日前后太阳到这一宫。那时的节气是霜降。Sagittarius is an Autumn Zodiac Sign (as are the Signs of Libra and Scopio). This time of year is also known as the Light Snow...a time of harvest when the days and nights are of equal length.射手:黄道十二宫的第九宫,每年11月22日前后太阳到这一宫。那时的节气是小雪。Capricorn is an Winter Zodiac Sign (as are the Signs of Aquarius and Pisces). This time of year is also known the Winter Solstice when the days are shorter and the nights are longer than at any other time during the year.羯:黄道十二宫的第十宫,每年12月22日前后太阳到这一宫。那时的节气是冬至。所以冬至点又叫“羯宫第一点”。Aquarius is an Winter Zodiac Sign (as are the Signs of Capricorn and Pisces). This time of year is also known the Great Cold when the days are shorter and the nights are longer than at any other time during the year.水瓶:黄道十二宫的第十一宫,每年1月20日前后太阳到这一宫。那时的节气是大寒。Pisces arrives in the closing month of winter, when the whole of the year#39;s cycle dissolves and finally comes to an end. It is a time that is neither Winter nor Spring, and the time of year is between the Vernal Equinox and Clear and Bright.双鱼:黄道十二宫的第十二宫,每年约3月12日到4月18日,太阳在双鱼座中运行,春分和清明两个节气点就在双鱼座。 /201507/386199。

In the rare free moments she has had this year between visiting Ebola centres in west Africa and pleading for support in front of the UN, Dr Joanne Liu, international president of Médecins Sans Frontières, re The Plague by Albert Camus. Unsurprisingly, it had extra resonance this time. She was particularly struck by the narrator Dr Rieux’s statement that he keeps going because he has never managed to get used to seeing people die. Telling me this, she pauses. “I think today it’s one of our problems. Somehow we got used to death and then we dehumanised it. We account for conflicts in figures. Ebola is 13,500 infected, 5,000 people have died…#8201;People are losing their sense of empathy, their sense of wanting to do something.”身为无国界医生组织(MSF)的国际主席,廖满嫦医生(Dr Joanne Liu)今年颇为忙碌,她不时要前往西非的埃拉疫区,还要赴联合国(UN)请求援,不过她还是忙里偷闲重读了阿尔贝#8226;加缪(Albert Camus)所著的《鼠疫》(The Plague)。不出所料,这次阅读让她感触更深了。她尤其被书中的叙述者李欧医生(Dr Rieux)的自白所打动:他之所以能坚持下去,是因为他始终不习惯看到人们死去。说到这里,她停顿了一下,接着说道:“我觉得这是我们现在的一个问题。我们不知怎么就习惯了死亡,在对待死亡问题上变得没有了人情味。我们用数字来说明事故。埃拉病毒已造成13500人感染,5000人死亡……人们正在失去同情心,没有了想要做点什么的心思。”No one can accuse MSF or the woman who leads it of that. Since the current outbreak of Ebola was confirmed in Guinea in March, the organisation has worked with more than 6,000 patients, manning the front lines in west Africa for months before the world started to take notice. MSF realised this epidemic was different from previous ones almost immediately. “Our experience [with Ebola] is that it’s in a remote village and the chain of transmission dies very quickly#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201;That’s it. It’s over in less than three months,” says Liu. “This was different because it was geographically sp.” But the international community didn’t want to know: “We were told that we were getting too excited and ringing the alarm when everything was under control.” Matters were complicated by the sheer number of global crises demanding attention this year. “There was South Sudan and the Central African Republic [CAR]#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201;DRC#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201;Ukraine#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201;and then Gaza was a full-blown crisis in July.”对于这种状况,没人能指责MSF或是这位女主席。自从3月份几内亚实爆发了埃拉疫情以来,该组织已经接治了6000多名病人,在其坚守西非前线几个月后世界才关注起这次疫情。MSF几乎立刻就发现,此次埃拉疫情不同于以往。“根据我们的经验,埃拉疫情一般发生在偏远村庄,传播链很快会中断……就是这样。疫情会在不到3个月内结束。”廖满嫦称,“而这次爆发的疫情并不一样,因为病毒能在地域间传播。”然而,国际社会并不想了解其中究竟。“我们听到的说法是,我们过于激动了,大惊小怪,其实一切都在控制之下。”今年国际上发生了太多需要关注的危机,这使事情变得复杂。“有南苏丹内战和中非共和国政变……刚果民主共和国……乌克兰……接着是7月加沙地带全面爆发的危机。”MSF works in all of those places, with more than 32,000 staff in 67 countries last year. Founded in 1971 and largely privately funded, it provides independent humanitarian aid while bearing witness to what it sees on the ground.MSF在所有这些地方都在运作。该组织成立于1971年,大部分经费靠私人捐助,去年成员总数超过32000名,遍布67个国家。MSF提供独立的人道救援,同时也现场见各种灾难。Liu only became international president in October 2013. It seems an understatement to say it’s been a tough first year on the job. “It has hijacked all my life,” she laughs. When thinking about how best to describe it, three words keep coming back to her. Challenging — there have been so many places needing attention. Overstretched — the whole sector has reached its limits. And gap — a hole has been exposed in people’s ability to respond. “We’ve been running behind a train that is moving faster than the response has been in west Africa since the beginning,” she says.廖满嫦于2013年10月才出任MSF国际主席。如果说任期第一年是艰难的,似乎有些轻描淡写。“这份工作绑架了我全部的生活,”她笑着说。当她思考如何形容这份工作比较恰当时,脑海中不停地闪现三个词。挑战性——始终有太多地区需要关注。超负荷——这一领域已经达到了极限。差距——人们做出反应的能力暴露出了不足。她称:“我们就像一直跟在火车后头跑,与我们在西非做出反应的速度相比,它要快得多。”. . .……Liu was born in Quebec, Canada to Chinese immigrant parents. For her, MSF is a calling. As a teenager she a book by a French doctor about his time with the organisation and that was that. “I remember ing that when I was young and saying, ‘Oh my god, this is a real life,’” she says. After her medical training she volunteered with the organisation repeatedly, spending time in the field from Darfur to Haiti and heading the Canadian branch. The opposite of self-promoting, she shows little interest in her own achievements: “I find myself a bit boring because I somehow always wanted to be MSF.”廖满嫦出生在加拿大魁北克一个华裔移民家庭。对她而言,加入MSF是受到了感召。她年少时读过一本法国医生写的书,讲述他在该组织工作的经历。“我记得读那本书时我还很年轻,我说‘我的天啊,这才是真实的生活’,”她说。在接受过医疗培训后,她多次成为该组织的志愿者,在达尔富尔、海地等多个地方工作过,后来还负责加拿大分。对于个人取得的成就,她非但没有夸夸其谈,反而显得不太乐意提起:“我觉得自己有点无趣,总是想着要当个无国界医生。”Boring is not the word most would use to describe someone whose work, this year alone, has seen her travel to Syria, the CAR, Myanmar, the DRC and Sierra Leone among other countries, not to mention multiple trips to the UN and Montreal, where much of her life remains. Liu is a force to be reckoned with: the words flow out of her, punctuated only by the occasional “how you say” as she pauses to allow her French-English translation skills time to catch up with her brain.因为这份工作,她仅今年内就去过了叙利亚、中非共和国、缅甸、刚果民主共和国和塞拉利昂等等许多国家,更别提还多次前往联合国和蒙特利尔(她主要生活的地方),对于这样一个人,多数人都不会用“无趣”来形容。与她交谈需要集中精神认真应付:她侃侃而谈,只是偶尔插句“你怎么说”做个停顿,给点时间让自己法译英的技巧赶上大脑思考的速度。This is a woman who, while based in Switzerland, planned to spend her August holidays doing shifts in the Canadian hospital with which she remains associated as a paediatric emergency physician — “to keep a clinical hand in”. Ebola put a stop to that but she is determined to find somewhere to practise in Geneva. She laughs when asked how she fits it all in. “I feel that [in] any position of this kind of exposure and commitment, you have to accept that you won’t be as balanced as you would like. I always think of it as a privilege, an honour.”常驻瑞士,却计划着利用8月份的假期在加拿大医院(她仍然是该院的儿科急诊医生)轮班——“要保持临床的工作”,她就是这样一个女人。埃拉终止了这一计划,但她决定在日内瓦找个地方继续执业。当被问到如何适应这一切时,她大笑起来。“我觉得,处在这种要面对公众、肩负着使命的职位上,你就得接受一个事实,你没法做到像你希望的那样,各个方面都兼顾到。我总是把它看作一种殊荣,深感荣幸。”Her relentless travel schedule has also served up some difficult insights. “Our humanitarian aid system is sick and needs to be fixed. It needs to get a reality check and get back humanity,” she says. She recounts with disdain a supposed DRC success story about a displaced woman with the resilience to support herself. It turned out she had become a prostitute. “I can’t believe that you’re giving me that#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201;That’s resilience for you?” she says, then mentions another visit to a displaced persons camp in the CAR. “People were talking to me with their two feet in mud. And I said, ‘This is not possible, that in the 21st century we still have to see that.’ And that for me is really a call for how can we do better?#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201;Can I stand on a spot where I don’t have my two feet in water?”不停出差也使她得以深入了解情况。她称:“我们的人道救援体系出了问题,需要被修复。这需要进行一次现实检查,重新回到人道主义的宗旨上。”她以不屑的口吻讲了一个发生在刚果民主共和国的故事,一个无家可归的妇女,坚强地自力更生养活自己,被视为一个成功的援助案例,结果发现她已经当了。“我不敢相信你就拿这个回报我……这就是你的坚强?”她称,接着又提到了在中非共和国一次探访难民安置营的经历。“人们跟我说话时,两只脚还踩在泥里。我说,‘这不可能,都21世纪了我们还能看到这种情况。’这使我认真思考,我们怎样做得更好?……我能站在一个不用把双脚踩在水里的地方吗?”MSF is not necessarily the popular kid in the humanitarian aid playground. For one thing, it is unusual in having financial autonomy: 89 per cent of its funding comes from individual and private donors. The flexibility that such independence brings also ushers in critics. “Some people say that sometimes we’re a loner, and I accept that. And some people say we’re arrogant and it happens and I’m quite aware of that,” says Liu. “But it’s important to be self-sustaining because that’s what gives you the capacity to respond quickly.” In the case of Ebola, this meant arriving on the spot while others were still having meetings.在人道救援圈子中,MSF未必是受欢迎的。拥有财务自主权是该组织与众不同的一个地方:其89%的资金来自个人和私人捐助者。这种因为财务独立而具有的灵活性也招致了批评。“有些人说,有时我们是孤单的,我同意这个说法。还有人说我们是傲慢的,确实是这样,我也相当清楚这一点,”她说,“但是自给自足很重要,因为这才使你拥有迅速反应的能力。”以埃拉疫情来说,这意味着,在其他人还在开会讨论时,MSF便抵达了疫区。Once in the thick of something, MSF stresses the importance of staff sharing what they see. So Liu stood up repeatedly in front of the UN and begged for boots on the ground, rather than mere promises. “I think that when people heard MSF say we were losing the battle, it was a bit of a shock for everybody.” Still, she feels it was the return home for treatment of two infected American missionaries in August that really woke people up. “All of a sudden it was knocking at our door#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201;these were our neighbours, these were our colleagues, these were our people#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201;And when it changed from them to us, then it got traction,” she recalls.每到形势最紧张的时候,MSF会强调成员们分享各自见闻的重要性。因此,廖满嫦反复向联合国请求采取实际行动,而不仅仅是口头承诺。“我觉得,当人们听到MSF说我们正在输掉这场战争时,每个人都有点震惊。”然而,她认为,直到8月份两名受感染的美国传教士回国接受治疗时,人们才真的醒悟过来。“突然间,它就敲响了我们的家门……这些人是我们的邻居,我们的同事,是我们的同胞……而当‘他们’变成‘我们’时,才引起了关注,”她回忆称。For Liu, the effect of such proximity was not surprising. Indeed, she thinks the closeness that most MSF workers have to situations propels them to act. For these doctors, it’s not just nameless people in a far-off country who are dying but the cousins of the nurse who has been with them since the beginning of the epidemic. MSF employs a ratio of about 10 national staff to every international member and Liu believes they are the true heroes. “To do it for four weeks [the average international staff placement] is straining but to be living with Ebola for the last eight to nine months, it’s really, really hard,” she says. “Most of our staff have either lost family members or friends, as well as living in the constant potential fear of being exposed.” Thirteen have died so far.在廖满嫦看来,近距离接触疫情所产生的这种影响并不令人意外。事实上,她认为,多数MSF工作人员因为接近疫情,驱使他们采取行动。对这些医生来说,将死的不是在遥远国家的无名人氏,而是自疫情开始一起做事的那位护士的表亲。MSF从每个国际成员国聘请约10名医生,廖满嫦相信他们都是真正的英雄。“连续做4周工作(国际员工的平均安排)的强度很大,但在过去8-9个月里面对埃拉,这真的很难很难,”她称,“我们多数人员不是失去了家人,就是失去了朋友,还要生活在可能暴露在病毒中的恐惧中。”目前为止,已有13人死亡。Liu is fiercely protective of the people that she works with: “What makes MSF, the strength of us, it’s our people.” In April, the organisation lost four staff in an attack on hospital grounds in CAR, and the question of how best to work in increasingly dangerous contexts — Syria, Libya, South Sudan, Somalia among others — remains unresolved. “Hospitals being targeted, patients being targeted, ambulances being targeted#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201;the last spot that was supposed to have a minimum of respect has been violated in 2014,” she says. She believes it critical that MSF maintains a hands-on presence. How precisely that can happen will be one of her focuses in 2015.廖满嫦对一起共事的人有强烈的保护欲:“是什么成就了MSF,我们的力量,是我们的人。”4月,中非共和国的医院遭受袭击,该组织失去了4名员工,而在越来越危险的环境——叙利亚、利比亚、南苏丹、索马里等等——如何更好开展工作的问题仍然没有解决。她称:“医院成为袭击目标,病人成为目标,救护车成了目标……这些原本应受到最起码尊重的仅存之地,在2014年被侵犯了。”她认为,MSF保持亲临现场是至关重要的。如何确实做到这一点,将成为她2015年的工作重点之一。And what about that Ebola train? Are we still running behind? “I think that what is happening now in some places is we’re jumping in the train and trying to get hold of the brake,” she says. “What has been the hampering, the hindering factor is fear#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201;People are scared to deploy, scared of being infected.” Her hope is that the episode will teach the international community that someone needs to take responsibility before such a crisis escalates again in the future. “We all know that if the world had woken up in the spring, we wouldn’t be where we are today.”那么“埃拉列车”怎么样了?我们仍然跟在后面跑吗?“我想有些地方的情况是,我们跳上了火车,并试着控制刹车,”她称,“一直以来的障碍,造成阻碍的因素是恐惧……人们害怕采取行动,害怕被传染。”她希望这件事将使国际社会明白,有人需要担起责任,以防未来这样一场危机再次升级。“我们都知道,如果世界在今年春天能警醒,我们就不会处在今天这种局势。”When we talked, Liu was about to get back on a plane to west Africa to reassess the situation. MSF is hosting trials there and she is determined to make sure that any new treatment will be accessible to those on the ground. (On her return she will speak out about the potential for a double failure, both initially and now in adapting the response.) For her, the most crucial thing is keeping the world’s attention. “It’s like when you’re sick and you have pneumonia and you’ve been given antibiotics for 10 days and then you start to feel better after three days and would like to stop taking your antibiotics,” she says. “We’re just getting ahead of the game. We need to finish.”我们谈话时,廖满嫦准备乘机返回西非,对埃拉疫情进行重新评估。MSF在那里组织试验,她决心确保任何一种新治疗手段将能被用于处在疫情中心的人。(回去后,她将阐述双重失败的可能性,包括最初的应对措施和现在的对策调整。)对她来说,最重要的事情是让全世界的人继续关注疫情。“就好像你生病,得了肺炎,医生给你开了10天的抗生素,刚治了3天你感觉有所好转,就想停了抗生素,”她说,“我们刚要在游戏中占得优势。我们要完成它。”Alice Fishburn is the deputy editor of FT Weekend Magazine本文作者为《FT周末杂志》(FT Weekend Magazine)副主编 /201412/350939。